Exploring Kent's Past

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Monument details

Summary

Grade I listed building. Main construction periods 613 to 1971. An Anglo-Saxon church, rebuilt circa 965, incorporating the remains of the abbey church, founded circa 633. Built on the site of a Roman building, possibly a bath house or a villa. The church has a plan of nave, north aisle, west tower and chancel, altered in the 11th, 12th, 14th and 16th centuries. Lyminge was one of the early minsters founded in Kent before 700 AD. Domesday Monachorum records 10 churches dependent upon the minster. Ethelburga returned to Kent after the death of her husband, King Edwin of Northumbria, founding the nunnery and monastery, and becoming its first abbess. It was ruled by Abbot Cuthbert before he became Bishop of Hereford in 736. Although ravaged by the Danes, it survived until circa 964.

Monument Types

• BATH HOUSE (BATH HOUSE, Roman - 43 AD to 409 AD)
• SITE (Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon to Modern - 613 AD to 1971 AD)
• DOUBLE HOUSE (DOUBLE HOUSE, Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon - 633 AD to 1065 AD)
• MINSTER (CHURCH, Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon - 633 AD to 975 AD)
• NUNNERY (NUNNERY, Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon - 633 AD to 1065 AD)
• CHURCH (Early Medieval or Anglo-Saxon to Modern - 1001 AD to 2050 AD)

Full description

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Description from record TR 14 SE 8:
[TR 16104085] St Mary's Nunnery and Monastery [NR] (Remains of, AD 633) [NAT] Erected on Site of [NAT] Villa Maxima [R] (1) [TR 16084086] Roman bronze ampulla found near here A.D. 1895 [NAT] [TR 16104084] Roman coin found here A.D. 1929 [NAT] (2) The church of St. Mary and St. Ethelburga dates to circa AD 965, the work of St. Dunstan, and still incorporates part of his church and also, in the south wall, part of an earlier small church of Kentish type which lay immediately to the south, and is believed to have been the church of the nunnery and monastery founded here in AD 633 by St. Ethelburga. The meadow to the south called Court Lodge Green, later incorporated in the churchyard, was covered with mounds of masonry in the 19th century (5). Excavations by Canon Jenkins (6,7) revealed foundations of what he took to be an unusually large and ambitious Saxon church incorporating the remains of a Roman "basilical" church, though it is now accepted that only the remains adjoining the present church are Saxon, and that the rest form part of a Roman building, perhaps a bath-house (8,9). See plan (10). They were said in the Gent's Magazine to represent "a Roman villa of considerable extent." The NE corner of the nave and a part of the apsidal chancel walling of Ethelburga's church have been left visible beside the south porch of the present church. See illustration (10). Much Roman material is incorporated in the fabric of the present church and also in the foundations of the earlier church, in the NW corner of which Jenkins found a Roman ampulla 8ft below the surface (6). (3-10) While considerable amounts of Roman tile have been employed in the construction of the churches, no traces of a Roman building were found. On exhibition in the present church is an olla of Upchurch ware, said to have probably been found in the churchyard by Canon Jenkins, also a radiate of Gallienus found in 1929 near the remains of the Saxon apse, and an ampulla bearing a card which states it was found by Canon Jenkins circa 1895. This is clearly in error, and should probably read circa 1874. Of the early Saxon church, the line of the apse is marked out by flagstones, and the junction of the apse with the north wall of the nave has been built up above ground level with Roman tile fragments. The course of the N wall running beneath the S porch of the existing church is marked by rubble masonry which appears to be a reconstruction. West of the present church, in a Garden of Remembrance, some foundations of roughly squared ragstone appear to be in line with the Saxon remains further east. (11) Church of St. Mary and St. Ethelburga and the remains of the older Church to the south of this, Grade A. The present building consists of a chancel, a nave with a north aisle, a south porch and a west tower. (For full description see list). (12) Additional Bibliography. (13-23)

Evaluation for site of new parish office. The excavation revealed the presence of a possible building of post-hole construction with a rammed chalk floor. The base of a fired clay hearth or oven overlay the floor. The structure may have been destroyed by fire, and there is evidence to suggest that salvagable elements were removed following this event. (25)

The earliest part of the existing church must date from after the Norman conquest. It was perhaps built c. 1080 and is mentioned in Domesday book and by Goscelin (writing in the late 11th century). The latter describes the tomb of St. Eadburga (her relics had been in c. 1085 translated to St. Gregory's in Canterbury) as 'eminentius et augustius monumentum in aquilonali porticu ad australem ecclesiae parietem arcu involutum'. This must confirm that the original 7th century church (excavated by Canon Jenkins in the 1860s) was immediately to the south of the present church with the saints body in a north porticus that was later (from the 1080s) covered by the south wall of the present church. There is still an open niche here with a shallow ironstone + Roman brick arch over it, now with a 19th century vent in its E. side wall. There is a large slab at the base of the niche. The original chancel and nave (south wall) is made of rough coursed masonry (flint ironstone, some Roman brick etc.), some of it in a 'herribone' form. The chancel E. quoin and the nave S.E. quoin are of Quarr stone (from the Isle of Wight) which confirms a late 11th century date. Two original semi-circular headed windows survive in the north wall of the chancel as well as one in the chancel south wall (the inner arch of a second window is visible above the east side of a later perp. window to the east), and one in the nave S. wall above the door as well as the inner head of another at the west end of the nave south wall. The windows in the chancel appear originally to have extended downwards, but were later blocked at the base. The inner arches of the original windows have (? later) stone jambs in the middle but Roman brick semi-circular arches above and Roman brick jambs at the bottom. The smaller outer openings are all of stone.

A north aisle may have been added in the 12th or 13th century, but there is no direct evidence for this. There is, however, a frag. of late 12th century foliage carving in the chancel wall above the south door arch. The buttress north-west corner of the north aisle (and thicker walls) probably indicate an earlier tower, perhaps of 13th century date. The tops of the buttresses, however, have new brick weatherings and much of the N. wall is masked externally by the new vestry and internally by the organ, so it is difficult to confirm 13th masonry. The small doorways in the north (blocked externally) and south walls of the chancel were also probably inserted in the 13th century. There also appears to have been a contemporary vestry to the north-east of the chancel (Canon Jenkins apparently excavated the 'ancient and deep foundations of large and rudely squared stones' of its east wall-marked on his plan).

The two three-light windows inserted into the south wall of the nave have 'decorated' tracery in them, dating from the late 13th century. They are made of Ragstone and have hood-moulds (the eastern window is heavily restored), with to the east of it much 19th century refacing of the upper wall.

The new north aisle was apparently added in the 1480s (Hasted says that the arms of Archbishop Bourchier (died 1486) were in the east window - they are now in the Norman window over the south door). It has a fine 3-bay arcade to the nave with four-centred arches on lozenge-shaped piers (with large circular shafts attached to E. + W.; also much thinner shafts to the diagonals) - all of well-cut ragstone. A will of 1511 may suggest that the N. aisle east altar is dedicated to St. Lawrence (Test. Cant., 204). There are also three two-light cinquefoil headed windows (with external square hood-moulds) in the aisle (an east and two north windows), as well as an external plinth and buttresses. The eastern half of the northern wall and the east wall were all clearly rebuilt at this time from the ground. A tall narrow two-light trefoil-headed window was also inserted into the west wall, probably at the same time, as was the two-light window (without hood-moulds) at the west end of the north side of the chancel.

Other late 15th century alterations to the chancel are the two-light windows in the south wall (with more perpendicular tracery in the heads) and the three-light east window (with hood-mould). An unusual diagonal flying buttress was added to support the S.E. quoin of the chancel (and to allow processions to pass beneath), and a very wide 4-centred chancel arch was inserted (no doubt after the demolition of an earlier narrow arch). The chancel arch springs directly from the side walls (and has no capitals). It was perhaps built for the new rood-screen and loft. A fragment of the screen is perhaps now the front of the rector's stall. At the S.E. corner of the nave a triangular headed door (now blocked with Roman bricks) perhaps led originally to the roof-loft stair. There appears to be another filled doorway above. In the nave a new south door and a very fine queen-and king-post roof were also inserted in the late 15th century and covered in lead. The roof has moulded tie beams - rafters, purlins and ridge piece, and was originally of 3 bays with wall posts on corbels supporting the four tie-beams on the north side. (Extra trusses were inserted in between during the Victorian restoration, and many timbers were repaired). The north aisle roof is also probably late 15th century. A parapet was built around the nave/N. aisle roofs which post-dates the tower - it butts the S.E. tower buttress.

In the late 15th century, work also started on building a new west tower (it is mentioned in wills of 1508, when there was apparently a pause in the work, and 1527). There is a fine tower arch in well cut ragstone. The west doorway originally has the arms of abp. Warham (N.) and abp. Morton (S.) in the spandrels. The former is very worn, while the latter, which apparently also had Morton's Cardinal's cap (acquired 1493), is totally worn away. Above the west doorway is a three-light perp. window, but the upper stage above this (the bell chamber) is of much rougher small rag rubble. The belfry two-light windows are of poor quality rag with "plate" tracery (6 bells inside). The top is crenellated with a small spirelet on the roof (this top stage was probably not finished till just before the Reformation). The diagonal buttresses (including a diagonal buttress on the S.W. corner of the nave) are of poor quality and almost all the quoins have been replaced in brick. The tower has a plinth all around and a semi-octagonal stair-turret on the north. The timber south porch (very heavily rebuilt may be 15th century in origin. Most of the door and hinges into the tower stair-turret is original (c. 1500).

Simple Jacobean pulpit.

There was a very heavy Victorian restoration in c. 1860 in which all the Norman windows were reopened, a west gallery for singing (across the tower arch) was removed, and all the walls were totally scraped of their plaster (see Glynne (1877) 93-5). As well as this the nave roof was restored (see above), and the chancel roof was replaced and covered in blue slates and the tops of the walls rebuilt. The porch was also rebuilt (it was originally open at the sides - see Glynne's description). This was carried out by the Rector, the Rev'd. R. C. Jenkins, who then went on to carry out excavations in the churchyard (see below). (26)

The following text is from the original listed building designation:

TR 14 SE LYMINGE CHURCH ROAD (west side)
4/145 Church of St. Mary and St. 29.12.66 Ethelburga, and remains of the Older Church to south
GV I
Abbey church, now parish church. Site of a mixed-sex (Augustinian?) Abbey founded by St. Ethelburga (wife of King Edwin of Northumbria) in circa 633. Present church c.965, late C12, C14 and early C16. Nave and chancel flint, sandstone and ragstone, with considerable areas of herringbone work. North aisle uncoursed flint and sandstone. Tower roughly coursed ragstone and sandstone. Stone dressings. Lead roof to nave, slate roof to chancel. North aisle roof not visible. Nave and chancel substantially c.965, but south wall of nave, towards west end, apparently raised on vestiges of north wall of (a "porticus" of?) the c.633 church. Square-ended chancel, very slightly narrower than nave. Early C16 north aisle to nave, incorporating vestiges of an earlier north-west tower. West tower, for which bequests were made in 1508 and 1527. West tower: two stages, on high chamfered and moulded stone plinth. Battlemented above a hollow-chamfered string. Shingled octagonal spirelet. Uncusped two-light window with hexagonal upper light, and unglazed spandrels, in pointed-arched architrave with hoodmould, to each face of belfry. Small round- headed light in rectangular architrave with level hoodmould to base of north face of belfry stage. Three-light pointed-arched west window to lower stage, with cinquefoil-headed lights, tracery of vertical bars, cavetto-moulded architrave and moulded hoodmould. Pointed-arched hollow-chamfered west doorway in rectangular cavetto-moulded outer architrave with shields to spandrels, and with squared moulded hoodmould, the upper part of which is continued horizontally as a hollow-chamfered string. C16 door of feather-lapped planks. Polygonal north-east stair turret taller than tower, on continuation of tower plinth, and with plain parapet above a hollow-chamfered string. Small plain- chamfered rectangular lights. Integral diagonal north-west and south- west buttresses. Tower is slightly overlapped by nave wall to south, from which south-east buttress rises. Lower buttress angled from this, resting on excavated foundations of c.633 wall. Nave: no plinth, but foundations of c.633 towards west end. Hollow-chamfered stone string- course. Galleted stone repair work to east end of south elevation. Plain parapet with moulded stone coping. Small, round-headed single- splayed Cll or earlier window under eaves towards centre. Two C15 pointed-arched three-light south windows with cusped intersecting glazing bars, and hoodmould. Recess with segmental head low in wall to west of porch, said to have been a window through which tomb of St. Ethelburga (in the c.633 ruins?) could be seen. Plaque to east of porch records her burial. Scratch dial to south-east corner. South porch: C19. Two timber-framed bays on coursed flint and stone base. Glazed chamfered side-lights. Gabled plain-tile roof with moulded crown post. Medieval pointed-arched plain-chamfered inner doorway with broach stops. Chancel: no plinth. Lower eaves than nave. Small round-headed single-splayed Cll or earlier south window under eaves to west of centre. Two C15 south windows, each of two cinquefoil-headed lights, with tracery of vertical bars, almost triangular head and no hoodmould. Low C13 pointed-arched stone doorway west of centre. Medieval doubly plain-chamfered flying buttress from south-east corner to a free-standing pier. C15 pointed-arched east window of three cinquefoil-headed lights, with tracery of vertical bars, and hoodmould. Two Cll or earlier north windows, similar to south. Early C16 untraceried north-west window of two cinquefoil-headed lights and squared head. Large central patch or repair of dressed stones. North aisle: hollow-chamfered stone plinth except to west end. Plain parapet above hollow-chamfered string. Diagonal north-east buttress, north-west angle buttresses, and one north buttress. One east window and two north windows similar to north-west chancel window. Low, moulded, pointed-arched north doorway. Tall, narrow west window of two trefoil- headed lights, recessed in moulded architrave with cambered head. 1971 two-storey rectangular stone vestry in a C16 style towards west end of north side. Interior: structure: early C16 three-bay north arcade to nave of moulded four-centred arches springing from engaged semi-circular shafts with moulded semi-octagonal capitals. Outer mouldings continue to ground on each side of slender lozenge-section piers. Pointed C14 chancel arch of three plain-chamfered orders, resting on much broader rectangular piers, which are bevelled to west side, with remains of a C13 bar stop. Pointed early C16 tower arch in similar style to nave arcade. Evidence for former north-west tower includes increase in thickness of north aisle wall, with stone quoins and off-set to the rebate. Triangular head of a blocked opening (possibly a C7 window, or medieval doorway to non-extant rood-left stair turret) set low to east end of south wall of nave. Moulded three-centred-arched C15 or C16 doorway towards centre of north wall of chancel. Hollow-chamfered four-centred-arched doorway to tower stairs, with broach stops, and medieval door of feather-lapped studded boards, with fleur-de-lys hinges. Roof: shallow-pitched roof to nave, with three king-post trusses probably early C16. Moulded tie-beams, with hollow-chamfered arch braces springing from moulded pendant posts on stone corbels (not all extant). Each truss has moulded octagonal king post, braced only to moulded ridge purlin, and short vertical queen posts with moulded leading edges, arch-braced to moulded side purlins. Moulded common rafters, and fragment of a moulded wooden cornice. C19 chancel roof with king struts on collars. Partly C16 lean-to roof to north aisle with moulded tie-beams with solid-spandrel arch braces springing from moulded pendant posts; firing-pieces carry side purlin. Moulded wooden cornice. Fittings: fragment of stiff-leaf decoration beside south chancel doorway. C17 hexagonal panelled pulpit. Single stall with carved handrests and brattished desk with blind traceried panels. Octagonal font with moulded base. Two funeral hatchments. Two Benefactors' Boards dated 1819. Alabaster Reredos by Sir Ninian Comper. Monuments: tablet on north wall of chancel to Mrs. Catherine Holloway, d.1743; plain marble tablet with beaded edge, open-topped triangular pediment with shield, moulded plinth on plain consoles, and shaped black marble base-plate. Tablet adjacent to the last, to Jane Tylden, d.1836; marble, with rectangular consoles, plain base band, lightly- moulded cornice; and draped urn, against shaped black marble base-plate, signed Saunders, New Rd., London. Tapering stone tomb slab with cross in relief, against east wall of nave, north of chancel arch. Abbey's last known charter granted 964. Body of St. Ethelburga (d.647) moved to Canterbury 1085. (J. Newman, Buildings of England Series, North- East and East Kent, 1983 edn.).
Listing NGR: TR1614640971 (27)

KE 54 Listed as the possible site of a Roman villa. (28)

<1> OS 25" 1907 (OS Card Reference). SKE48258.

<2> OS 25" 1945 (OS Card Reference). SKE48269.

<3> Buildings of England Ne and E Kent 1969 361-2 (J Newman) (OS Card Reference). SKE38408.

<4> MRH 1971 477 (Knowles and Hadcock) (OS Card Reference). SKE47433.

<5> Gents Mag Lib Romano-British Remains Pt 1 1887 150-151 (OS Card Reference). SKE43596.

<6> Archaeol Cantiana 9 1874 205-233 illust (RC Jenkins) (OS Card Reference). SKE37273.

<7> Archaeol Cantiana 10 1876 ci-ciii plan (RC Jenkins) (OS Card Reference). SKE37265.

<8> Anglo-Saxon Architecture 1 1965 408 (Taylor and Taylor) (OS Card Reference). SKE33085.

<9> VCH Kent 3 1932 12 (Taylor Jessup and Hawkes) (OS Card Reference). SKE51007.

<10> Archaeol Journal 126 1969 257-260 plan illust (HM Taylor) (OS Card Reference). SKE37291.

<11> F1 ASP 09-MAY-63 (OS Card Reference). SKE42019.

<12> DOE(HHR) District of Elham RD Kent September 1960 20 (OS Card Reference). SKE41143.

<13> Archaeol Journ 53 1896 313-14 385 (JT Micklethwaite) (OS Card Reference). SKE37282.

<14> Archaeol Journ 86 1929 307-9 (Martin) (OS Card Reference). SKE37284.

<15> JBAA 39 1883 419-21 (OS Card Reference). SKE44952.

<16> JBAA 43 1887 363-9 (R Jenkins) (OS Card Reference). SKE44981.

<17> JBAA 45 1889 192-3 (RC Jenkins) (OS Card Reference). SKE44985.

<18> Archaeol of Kent 1930 258 (RF Jessup) (OS Card Reference). SKE37294.

<19> Archaeol Cant 18 1889 46-54 (RC Jenkins) (OS Card Reference). SKE37213.

<20> The Archaeol of Anglo-Saxon England 1976 162-3 (DM Wilson) (OS Card Reference). SKE50073.

<21> Anglo-Saxon Architecture 3 1978 1074 1107 index (HM Taylor) (OS Card Reference). SKE33089.

<22> Buildings of England North East and East Kent 1983 355-377 (J Newman) (OS Card Reference). SKE38416.

<23> Arthur's Britain 1971 171 (L Alcock) (OS Card Reference). SKE37356.

<24> Field report for monument TR 14 SE 8 - May, 1963 (Bibliographic reference). SKE5411.

<25> Canterbury Archaeological Trust, 1993, An Archaeological evaluation of the site of a new parish office, Lyminge Churchyard. (Unpublished document). SKE6793.

<26> Diocese of Canterbury (Tim Tatton-Brown), 1991, Church Survey - St Mary and St Ethelburg's Church, Lyminge (Unpublished document). SKE7616.

<27> English Heritage, List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest (Map). SKE16160.

<28> Eleanor Scott, 1993, A gazetteer of Roman villas in Britain (Unspecified Type). SWX23549.

Sources and further reading

Related records

Related thematic articles

• Anglo-Saxon Kent (Period Overview)