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Monument details

HER Number:TQ 77 SE 1195
Type of record:Listed Building
Name:UPNOR CASTLE

Summary

Grade I listed building. Main construction periods 1559 to 1999. Built in 1559 to protect the Queen's navy when moored in Chatham Reach and later enlarged at the end of the 16th century. Subsequently it was converted into a magazine establishment in the late-17th century after the Dutch raid on the Medway. The castle was designed by Sir Richard Lee, the foremost English military engineer of his day. Accounts of the first building campaign extend to 1564. The castle was enlarged 1599-1601 when it took on its present shape. In 1623, eighteen guns of various sizes were mounted and the castle saw action during the Dutch raid on the Medway in 1667. Following that attack, the defences of the Medway were changed radically and in 1668 Upnor was ordered to be converted into 'a Place of Stores and Magazine'. This use continued until 1827. Soon after 1718, a separate barrack was built for the garrison close to the village street. In 1891 Upnor and its depot was transferred from the War Office to the Admiralty and became part of the Naval Armament Supply Department

Summary from record TQ 77 SE 1198:

Elizabethan fortification converted into naval powder magazine.

Summary from record TQ 77 SE 1315:

An artillery castle situated on the north western bank of the River Medway which survives in the form of standing buildings, ruined structures and earthworks.

Images

Upnor Castle   © Ian Giles
Grid Reference:TQ 75856 70574
Map Sheet:TQ77SE
Parish:FRINDSBURY EXTRA, MEDWAY, KENT

Monument Types

  • ARTILLERY CASTLE (Post Medieval - 1559 AD to 1900 AD)
  • CASTLE (Post Medieval to Modern - 1559 AD to 1999 AD)
  • MAGAZINE (Post Medieval to Modern - 1559 AD? to 1959 AD?)
  • MAGAZINE (Post Medieval to Modern - 1668 AD? to 2050 AD?)
  • BARRACKS (Post Medieval to Modern - 1718 AD to 2050 AD?)
  • ARMAMENT DEPOT (Post Medieval to Modern - 1891 AD to 1945 AD)
  • LABORATORY (Modern to Post Medieval - 1927 AD to 1891 AD?)
Protected Status:Listed Building (I) 1204365: UPNOR CASTLE; Scheduled Monument 1012980: ARTILLERY CASTLE AT UPNOR

Full description

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The following text is from the original listed building designation:
FRINDSBURY EXTRA CP UPPER UPNOR TQ 77 SE 15/7 Upnor Castle GV I
Fort. 1559-67 to designs by Sir Richard Lee, enlarged 1599-1601 to designs by Arthur Gregory and an Italian engineer surnamed Baptist. Converted into magazine 1668, Ordnance Laboratory 1827 and part of the Naval Armament Supply Department in the late C19. Coursed ragstone with some red brick heightening and patching. Rectangular main block with water bastion and river frontage belongs to Sir Richard Lee's design of 1559-67. Two riverside towers substantially rebuilt and gatehouse, curtain wall and moat added 1599-1601. River front height- ened, alterations to gatehouse and towers later in C17. Gatehouse: coursed coarse ragstone walls either side of entrance with cross-loops, one marked on lintel 'W. Webster XXIII Regt, 1787 May'. Coursed rubble gatehouse projecting from two wider taller rear towers, all brought up to greater height in C17 with double-splayed segment- headed stone-dressed gun-ports in top stage of sides of gatehouse. Wooden bell-cote over gatehouse with bell dated 1809. Recess immed- iately over gate-arch, perhaps for coat-of-arms. Round-arched inner gateway in line with inner tower walls with C20 balustrades on two floors over, following C18 configuration. Curtain wall: rebuilt after 1625. Coursed ragstone with red brick parapet and wooden stakes projecting over moat to north-west and south-west. Magazine: East side: Coursed ragstone with some red brick rebuilding. Main block in centre with north and south towers attached by lower walls at level of band on main block. Staked palisade projecting to east into River Medway in triangle full-width of block with inner gun-embrasured water bastion full width of magazine only. North-east and south-east towers: Rectangular with brick parapets and round stair-towers towards Medway. Various irregular loops and wooden mullioned windows. Magazine block: Platband at half-height and crenellated parapet. End projecting round towers and central projecting octagonal stair tower, all taller than block which has recessed ends behind shallow splayed side to centre. 4 oculi on two upper floors and 2 round-arched windows on stair-tower, all added before 1698. Various other loops. 3 round-arched doorways at water bastion level, one in centre to wooden spiral stair, two outer doorways to small side compartments under magazine. At the height of its use in the early C17 the Castle was equipped with 'a demi-cannon, 7 culverin, 5 demi-culverin, a minion, a falcon, a saker and 4 fowlers with 2 chambers apiece'. See A. Saunders, Upnor Castle, DOE Official Handbook, 1983. Upnor Castle is a scheduled Ancient Monument and is in the care of the Historic Buildings and Monuments Commission. Listing NGR: TQ7585470566 (51)

Description from record TQ 77 SE 4:
[TQ 7585 7057] CASTLE [G.T.] (1) In 1560 Richard Watts was appointed to erect a Bulwark at UPNOR, on the western bank of the MEDWAY opposite the Chatham dockyard, "for the savegard of our Navy." (a). It took four years to complete. UPNOR CASTLE is built of well coursed Kentish ragstone. It consists of a rectangular courtyard, defended by a thick curtain wall and a wide irregular ditch, with tall towers (at the N.E. & S.E. corners) and a large triangular bastion or battery (on the east) projecting into the river. The main entrance is a gatehouse on the western side and there is a sally port in the northern curtain. The main building occupies the eastern part of the courtyard but it has been so much altered that its original lay-out is uncertain. Alterations, in brick, were made to the gatehouse and north tower about 1653 and round windows were inserted in the east front in the 18th cent. In 1586 an iron chain "to cross the river over against Upnor Castle with timber work on both sides of the river" is fist mentioned. (b). This chain is frequently mentioned and it was broken through in 1667 when the Dutch fleet sailed up the Medway. See AO/58/56/1.(a)(b)(2) Additional references (3-6). A post-medieval dockyard fort and magazine, now in process of being converted into a maritime museum (7). The castle, in good condition and as described, is now under the care of the M.O.W. See Postcard view of Castle. It is no longer a maritime museum (8). Official guide-book giving history, plans, and photos (9). Upnor Castle, Grade I. Fort 1559-67 to designs by Sir Richard Lee, enlarged 1599-1601 to designs by Arthur Gregory and an Italian engineer surnamed Baptist. Converted into magazine, 1668, Ordnance Laboratory 1827 and part of the Naval Armament Supply Department in the late 19th century. Upnor Castle is a scheduled Ancient Monument and is in the care of the Historic Buildings and Monuments Commission.(For full description see list) (10). Additional index entries and relevant references in field reports (11-25). Site indicated on early charts (26,27). Site photographs (28-41). Site reffered to context of other defence sites in Kent (42).

"Built in 1559 to protect the Queen's navy when moored in Chatham Reach and later enlarged at the end of the 16th century. Subsequently it was converted into a magazine establishment in the late-17th century after the Dutch raid on the Medway. The castle was designed by Sir Richard Lee, the foremost English military engineer of his day. Accounts of the first building campaign extend to 1564. The castle was enlarged 1599-1601 when it took on its present shape. In 1623, eighteen guns of various sizes were mounted and the castle saw action during the Dutch raid on the Medway in 1667. Following that attack, the defences of the Medway were changed radically and in 1668 Upnor was ordered to be converted into 'a Place of Stores and Magazine'. This use continued until 1827. Soon after 1718, a separate barrack was built for the garrison close to the village street. In 1891 Upnor and its depot was transferred from the War Office to the Admiralty and became part of the Naval Armament Supply Department." (43)

Description from record TQ 77 SE 1198:
Part of Upnor Naval Magazine Complex.
Owner : Public
Publicly accessible : Yes
How accessed for survey : Open to public (English Heritage / Medway Council).
Tourism Potential : Already tourist attraction.
Condition : very good
Date of visit : 07/07/15

There were two oak trees, one living and one dead, in the grounds of Upnor Castle. They were reputed to have been grown from acorns brought back from the Crimean War and planted to commemorate the end of that conflict. Tree-ring analysis supported this account (44).

Works on the palisade on the foreshore around Upnor castle in 2008 uncovered remains of an earlier palisade. The timbers exposed probably belong to the Elizabethan palisade, representing an extension to the known form of this structure, based upon findings from the 1990s (45).

ENTRY IN THE SCHEDULE OF MONUMENTS:
The monument includes an artillery castle situated on the north western bank of the River Medway. The castle survives in the form of standing buildings and ruined structures, Listed Grade I, and earthworks. It was built in two main phases, initially between 1559 and 1567 to a design by Sir Richard Lee, in order to provide increased protection for Queen Elizabeth I's warships, most of which were anchored when out of commission in the sheltered Medway estuary at the nearby, newly established dockyards at Chatham. The second phase of construction, dating to the years between 1599 and 1601, aimed mainly to improve the landward defences of the castle. The castle also shows signs of later remodelling and repair.

The castle is constructed of ragstone faced with coursed ashlar blocks, along with some red brick. Much of the masonry was imported from earlier, derelict buildings demolished for the purpose at Rochester Castle, Aylesford and Bopley. Additional stone was transported from quarries at Bocton. Its defences are largely orientated towards the river and range around a north east to south west aligned, two-storeyed rectangular block measuring 41m by 21m. This originally provided accommodation for the garrison, and has a frontage which includes a central, polygonal bay containing a circular staircase, and circular turrets with garderobes, or latrines, projecting from either end. The facade is pierced by original doorways with four-centred heads at ground floor level and by bulls-eye and round headed windows with classical mouldings, inserted during the 18th century, on the first floor.

Projecting out over the river from the main building is a low, triangular, open gun platform, known as the water-bastion, which originally housed most of the castle's heavy artillery, now represented by six 19th century guns mounted on their original wooden carriages. The water-bastion receives additional protection from a continually renewed, staked palisade, originally erected in 1600. To the north east and south west are two square, flanking towers linked to the main building by a crenellated curtain wall. These are fronted by semicircular stair turrets which incorporate splayed gun embrasures at first floor level. To the north west the main building is backed by a rectangular courtyard bounded by a stone built curtain wall topped with brick coping. This enclosing wall was largely rebuilt, after being allowed to fall into disrepair, during the 17th century, and is now around 1m thick and c.4m high. Running along the inside of the curtain wall are the brick foundations of now ruined, narrow lean-to buildings, also dating to the 17th century, which were originally used for storage. In the north western corner is a sallyport, with a later inserted oven beside it. The castle's well is situated within the north western quarter of the courtyard.

The castle buildings are entered by way of a centrally positioned, four-storeyed gatehouse in the north western side of the curtain wall. This has a central, round-headed gateway, above which is an inserted, late 18th century clock, leading into a wide entrance passage. Flanking the gateway on its inner side are two tall, rectangular corner towers. Gun embrasures pierce the walls of the gatehouse and provide further protection for the entrance.

The gatehouse was remodelled during the early 1650's, and heightened in brick after a fire caused substantial damage in 1653. It is now capped by an early 19th century wooden bellcote and modern flagpole. The castle is enclosed on the landward side by a substantial dry ditch, originally 9.8m wide and 5.5m deep, which has become partially infilled over the years. This was originally spanned by a drawbridge, although this no longer survives.

By 1588, the year of the Spanish Armada, the castle's garrison included six gunners and a master gunner, and in 1603 it is recorded as housing 19 heavy guns. The castle did not see action until June 1667 when, during the Second
Dutch War, an enemy navy squadron under de Ruyter launched a successful surprise attack on the Thames and Medway defences. The squadron broke through the chain boom-defence which had been positioned across the river between Hoo Ness and Gillingham and threatened Chatham dockyard. Much English shipping was destroyed before a hastily organised defence at Upnor stalled the Dutch attack. This episode provoked a radical revision of south eastern coastal defences and the building of new forts along the Medway. These reduced the strategic importance of the by now old fashioned castle and in 1668 it was converted into a magazine and naval storage depot. The depot buildings gradually extended into the area to the north east of the monument which is still used by the Ministry of Defence, disturbing and overlying earlier gun emplacements associated with the castle. The earthwork remains of these are thought to be represented within the monument by a broad bank around 14m wide running parallel with the river from the ground immediately to the north east of the castle towards the adjoining naval depot to the north east.

During the 18th century, the castle's accommodation was extended by the construction of a new barracks block and associated storage buildings on land immediately to the south west of the monument. The castle and its depot continued to supply munitions to the navy until 1827, when it was fitted out as an ordnance laboratory. In 1891 responsibilty for the administration of the castle was transferred from the War Office to the Admiralty, and the newly created Naval Armament Supply Department began to use it, amongst other things, as a proofyard. The castle served as part of the Magazine Establishment during World War II, and in 1941 was partially damaged by two bombs which fell in the garden of nearby Upnor House. After 1945 the castle went out of military use and was opened to the public. Upnor Castle continues to form part of the Crown Estate and is now in the care of the Secretary of State.

All modern signs, fixtures, fittings and the modern surfaces of all paths and tracks are excluded from the scheduling, although the ground beneath these features is included.

ASSESSMENT OF IMPORTANCE
Artillery castles were constructed as strong stone defensive structures specifically to house heavy guns. Most date from the period of Henry VIII's maritime defence programme between 1539 and 1545, though the earliest and latest examples date from 1481 and 1561 respectively. They were usually sited to protect a harbour entrance, anchorage or similar feature.

These monuments represent some of the earliest structures built exclusively for the new use of artillery in warfare and can be attributed to a relatively short time span in English history. Their architecture is specific in terms of date and function and represents an important aspect of the development of defensive structures generally. Although documentary sources suggest that 36 examples originally existed, all on the east, south and south east coasts of England, only 21 survive. All examples are considered to be of national importance.

The development and history of Upnor castle is well documented by surviving construction drawings, building accounts and contemporary records. It was the last artillery castle to be built in England and its design differs markedly from that of earlier examples. The castle survives well in the form of standing remains and earthworks, and the detailed interpretation of these has increased our knowledge of both the original form and strategic importance of the castle, and its subsequent remodellings and changing use over the years. Its close association with the naval dockyards at Chatham provides evidence for the importance of the Medway for naval defence from the Elizabethan period. (46)

Additional bibliography - (47-52)

Archive material (53)


<1> OS 6" 1931-8 (OS Card Reference). SKE48330.

<2> Cal S P Dom 1547-80 172 (OS Card Reference). SKE38476.

<3> Cal S P Dom 1581-90 304 (OS Card Reference). SKE38477.

<4> Arch Cant vol 65 1952 1-11 Plan Photos (B H St. J O'Neil & S Evans) (OS Card Reference). SKE36425.

<5> `Antiquities of England & Wales' vol 3 1787 112-3 Illus (F Grose) (OS Card Reference). SKE32705.

<6> `Castles of England' vol I 1897 53-5 (JD Mackenzie) (OS Card Reference). SKE32711.

<7> `Old Rochester' No 29 1930 45 (OS Card Reference). SKE32726.

<8> "Hist of the Administration of the Royal Navy' 1509-1660" 1896 150-1 156 211 213 299 367 (M Oppenhei (OS Card Reference). SKE32637.

<9> F1 AC 16-NOV-51 (OS Card Reference). SKE41813.

<10> F2 FGA 02-NOV-64 (OS Card Reference). SKE43315.

<11> Upnor Castle 1967 (MPB & W) (OS Card Reference). SKE50702.

<12> DOE(HHR)City of Rochester Upon Medway 1986 18 (OS Card Reference). SKE41256.

<13> Arch J 126 1969 276-8 (AD Saunders) (OS Card Reference). SKE36572.

<14> Handbook of Kent's Defences 1540-1945 1977 12 (D Bennett) (OS Card Reference). SKE43672.

<15> Upnor Castle Eng Heritage booklet 1987 (AD Saunders) (OS Card Reference). SKE50703.

<16> Upnor Castle HMSO booklet 1984 (OS Card Reference). SKE50704.

<17> The Eng Castle 1936 111 (H Braun) (OS Card Reference). SKE50337.

<18> Hist of the King's Works vol 4 pt 2 1982 400 403 407 410 411 414 478-82 (HM Colvin) (OS Card Reference). SKE44047.

<19> Bldgs of Eng West Kent and the Weald 1980 590 (J Newman) (OS Card Reference). SKE38097.

<20> DOE (IAM) AM's Eng 2 1978 112 (OS Card Reference). SKE40689.

<21> Field report for monument TQ 77 SE 4 - November, 1951 (Bibliographic reference). SKE4248.

<22> Field report for monument TQ 77 SE 4 - November, 1964 (Bibliographic reference). SKE4249.

<23> O'Neil, B.H. St J. and Evans, S., 1952, Upnor Castle, Kent, p.1-11 (Article in serial). SWX7442.

<24> Anon., 1994, Research and Discoveries in Kent: 1994, p.462 (Article in serial). SWX7355.

<25> Smithers, D. W., 1980, Castles in Kent (Monograph). SWX9392.

<26> D. Steel, 1802, Medway and Thames (Chart). SWX8090.

<27> Bullock, 1835, River Medway (Chart). SWX8076.

<28> 1947, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX9747.

<29> 1947, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX9752.

<30> 1947, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX9847.

<31> 1947, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX9871.

<32> 1945, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX9893.

<33> 1944, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX10020.

<34> 2000, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX10397.

<35> 1986, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11076.

<36> 1986, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11077.

<37> 1986, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11080.

<38> 1986, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11081.

<39> 1986, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11082.

<40> 1998, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11083.

<41> 1998, Photograph (Photograph (Print)). SWX11084.

<42> Kent County Council, 1999, Survey of Kent post-1500 defence sites, KD12 (Index). SWX11828.

<43> Victor Smith and Andrew Saunders, 2001, Kent's Defence Heritage (Unpublished document). SKE6956.

<44> English Heritage, 2008, Upnor Castle, Upnor, Kent: Tree-Ring Analysis of Two Oak Trees (Unpublished document). SKE15897.

<45> Keevill Heritage Consultancy, 2009, Upnor Castle, Medway, Kent: Report of archaeological recording on the foreshore (Unpublished document). SKE15898.

<46> English Heritage, Register of Scheduled Monuments (Scheduling record). SKE16191.

<47> MMRG, 07/07/07, Upnor castle Magazine (Photograph). SKE14537.

<48> David Evans, 01/01/06, Arming the Fleet (Article in monograph). SKE14472.

<49> Keevill Heritage Consultancy, 2007, Upnor Castle, Medway, Kent: NGR TQ 758 706 Report Of An Archaeological Watching Brief On Drainage Works On The North Platform (Unpublished document). SKE15896.

<50> Peter Kendall, 2006, Historic barracks in Medway (Unpublished document). SKE15939.

<51> English Heritage, List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest (Map). SKE16160.

<52> Davies J & Stewart S, 1997, Wall Painting Condition Audit: Upnor Castle, Kent (Unpublished document). SKE54120.

<53> Historic England, Archive material associated with Upnor Castle, Listed building (Archive). SKE54121.

Sources and further reading

Cross-ref. Source description
<1>OS Card Reference: OS 6" 1931-8.
<2>OS Card Reference: Cal S P Dom 1547-80 172.
<3>OS Card Reference: Cal S P Dom 1581-90 304.
<4>OS Card Reference: Arch Cant vol 65 1952 1-11 Plan Photos (B H St. J O'Neil & S Evans).
<5>OS Card Reference: `Antiquities of England & Wales' vol 3 1787 112-3 Illus (F Grose).
<6>OS Card Reference: `Castles of England' vol I 1897 53-5 (JD Mackenzie).
<7>OS Card Reference: `Old Rochester' No 29 1930 45.
<8>OS Card Reference: "Hist of the Administration of the Royal Navy' 1509-1660" 1896 150-1 156 211 213 299 367 (M Oppenhei.
<9>OS Card Reference: F1 AC 16-NOV-51.
<10>OS Card Reference: F2 FGA 02-NOV-64.
<11>OS Card Reference: Upnor Castle 1967 (MPB & W).
<12>OS Card Reference: DOE(HHR)City of Rochester Upon Medway 1986 18.
<13>OS Card Reference: Arch J 126 1969 276-8 (AD Saunders).
<14>OS Card Reference: Handbook of Kent's Defences 1540-1945 1977 12 (D Bennett).
<15>OS Card Reference: Upnor Castle Eng Heritage booklet 1987 (AD Saunders).
<16>OS Card Reference: Upnor Castle HMSO booklet 1984.
<17>OS Card Reference: The Eng Castle 1936 111 (H Braun).
<18>OS Card Reference: Hist of the King's Works vol 4 pt 2 1982 400 403 407 410 411 414 478-82 (HM Colvin).
<19>OS Card Reference: Bldgs of Eng West Kent and the Weald 1980 590 (J Newman).
<20>OS Card Reference: DOE (IAM) AM's Eng 2 1978 112.
<21>Bibliographic reference: Field report for monument TQ 77 SE 4 - November, 1951.
<22>Bibliographic reference: Field report for monument TQ 77 SE 4 - November, 1964.
<23>Article in serial: O'Neil, B.H. St J. and Evans, S.. 1952. Upnor Castle, Kent. 65, pages 1-11. p.1-11.
<24>Article in serial: Anon.. 1994. Research and Discoveries in Kent: 1994. 114, pages 435-67. p.462.
<25>Monograph: Smithers, D. W.. 1980. Castles in Kent.
<26>Chart: D. Steel. 1802. Medway and Thames. chart.
<27>Chart: Bullock. 1835. River Medway. chart.
<28>Photograph (Print): 1947. Photograph. 5160. print.
<29>Photograph (Print): 1947. Photograph. 5186. print.
<30>Photograph (Print): 1947. Photograph. 3102. print.
<31>Photograph (Print): 1947. Photograph. 4104. print.
<32>Photograph (Print): 1945. Photograph. 2017. print.
<33>Photograph (Print): 1944. Photograph. 2062. print.
<34>Photograph (Print): 2000. Photograph. 138. print.
<35>Photograph (Print): 1986. Photograph. TQ7570/10. print.
<36>Photograph (Print): 1986. Photograph. TQ7570/11. print.
<37>Photograph (Print): 1986. Photograph. TQ7570/7. print.
<38>Photograph (Print): 1986. Photograph. TQ7570/8. print.
<39>Photograph (Print): 1986. Photograph. TQ7570/9. print.
<40>Photograph (Print): 1998. Photograph. TQ7571/10. print.
<41>Photograph (Print): 1998. Photograph. TQ7571/11. print.
<42>Index: Kent County Council. 1999. Survey of Kent post-1500 defence sites. KD12.
<43>Unpublished document: Victor Smith and Andrew Saunders. 2001. Kent's Defence Heritage.
<44>Unpublished document: English Heritage. 2008. Upnor Castle, Upnor, Kent: Tree-Ring Analysis of Two Oak Trees.
<45>Unpublished document: Keevill Heritage Consultancy. 2009. Upnor Castle, Medway, Kent: Report of archaeological recording on the foreshore.
<46>Scheduling record: English Heritage. Register of Scheduled Monuments.
<47>Photograph: MMRG. 07/07/07. Upnor castle Magazine.
<48>Article in monograph: David Evans. 01/01/06. Arming the Fleet.
<49>Unpublished document: Keevill Heritage Consultancy. 2007. Upnor Castle, Medway, Kent: NGR TQ 758 706 Report Of An Archaeological Watching Brief On Drainage Works On The North Platform.
<50>Unpublished document: Peter Kendall. 2006. Historic barracks in Medway.
<51>XYMap: English Heritage. List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest. [Mapped feature: #29586 Castle, ]
<52>Unpublished document: Davies J & Stewart S. 1997. Wall Painting Condition Audit: Upnor Castle, Kent.
<53>Archive: Historic England. Archive material associated with Upnor Castle, Listed building.

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